Wednesday, September 30, 2015
The History of Pinstriping
Tesla Model X. Please discuss and add your links in the thread below.
Other threads will be deleted.
https://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/3mx8x1/come_watch_the_tesla_model_x_launch_event/
[link] [6 comments]
My Girlfriend and Hatchbacks
Girlfriend - "Hatchbacks are so ugly. I would never drive one."
Me - "They're so practical though."
Girlfriend - "Yeah but so are fanny packs."
[link] [550 comments]
Tail/headlights, leave them alone please!
I am always amazed by the desire to achieve a look at the sacrifice of safety. Tinted tail lights, driving with only fog lights on because the owner upgraded their fog lights with HIDs& didn't have the $ to do the same for their headlamps. Or the person that often gets behind me every morning that installed HIDs without changing the housing to focus the light properly & drives around lighting up the whole zip code. I would think auto enthusiast would value their car enough to make sure people can see them & avoid an accident.
[link] [254 comments]
Apparently Paul Walker's daughter is suing Porsche over his death
Does this mean I get to sue BMW for $1000000 because my uncle got killed when his 335i XDrive got hit by a cargo truck?
Note: This is a sarcastic post, though my uncle really did die in a 335i.
[link] [66 comments]
I am happy beyond words to say, I finally joined the ranks of "Car Owner"
After years of driving whatever car my dad bought, I finally get to say I am the sole owner of my first car, a 2003 Acura RSX Type S!
I'm away at school right now, and just happened to be in town for the weekend when a friend of mine put his car up for the sale. I scooped it up! He's upgrading to a TL Type S his dad is selling!
The only downside is I already had a plane ticket back, so the car is currently chilling in my dad's garage until the end of October when I go back!
A few obligatory pics! Pardon my language, but I'm one happy camper!
[link] [25 comments]
How to avoid car slightly jumping forward?
I just started driving manual this year and when watching my friend drive he drove with seamless gear switching. Whereas when I drive I slightly kick forward after shifting gears. What can I change to seamlessly and quickly change gears?
EDIT: thanks to you all. I have to get used to a few things but it's definetly better, and playing with rev matching was fun. I learned a lot about the transmission and how it works which helped a lot. I also tried driving using only with the clutch and did it fairly successfully up to about 10mph. Thanks for all the help. Feels a lot better. And I will stop speeding now. Sorry about being a fairly reckless driver. TIL I can have loads of fun without speeding to much over. Once again thanks /r/cars.
[link] [228 comments]
Motortrend's 2015 Best Driver Car Lap Times (Laguna Seca)
2016 Mercedes AMG GT S - 1:35.57
2016 Porsche Cayman GT4 - 1:37.43
2016 Cadillac CTS-V - 1:38.53
2015 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 -1:38.60 (Mechanical issues)
2016 Cadillac ATS-V Coupe (A8) - 1:39.65
2016 Cadillac ATS-V Coupe (6MT) - 1:40.18
2015 Mercedes AMG C63 S - 1:40.50
2015 Lexus RC-F - 1:43.20
2015 Bentley Continental GT3-R - 1:43.51
2015 VW Golf R - 1:46.95
2016 Mazda MX-5 (Club) - 1:50.68
*Corvette Z06 was having unknown mechanical issues and was unable to make any boost. Chevy Tech's on hand were unable to diagnose problem but it did not seem like a heat/cooling issue like it usually is. Motortrend ranked the Z06 at #10 as a DNF (Did not finish) even though it ranked 4th overall with its mechanical issues.
Mercedes AMG GT-S won the competition overall.
[link] [89 comments]
This Civic may have ventured out of it's territory
Seriously: http://imgur.com/H5qRxTi
This was from a recent trip to Kashmir, Pakistan. Beautiful place, totally worth the drive. I drive my Civic a lot, and I take it everywhere.
[link] [57 comments]
Bought my very first car.
2001 Subaru Outback H6-3.0
It had just under 190,000 miles when I bought it and was in pretty good condition. Just spent a good part of the weekend cleaning it and I am very happy with it.
[link] [37 comments]
Tell me I'm not the only one
I don't know why, maybe it's because my car is two generations old now, but I actually enjoy the sterile and simplified exterior of the older cars. They seem more roomy and you have so much more visibility than the new cars. When I'm driving I love the sounds the car makes like the annoying Hyundai rattle in the door bolsters, the creaks of a suspension, etc. Please tell me I'm not just in a diluted world of average car fascination. I get excited when I see a manual 2006 Accord tearing it up on the highway - again, no idea why.
[link] [25 comments]
My '01 P38 Range Rover
I've been lurking on this subreddit for a while and decided to post some pics of my first car a 2001 P38 RR, as Jeremy Clarkson said. "The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world"
Any questions regarding the car don't hesitate to comment
[link] [18 comments]
Looking at starting a car club in Lakeland, Florida
I'm looking at starting a car club in Lakeland, Florida, i wanted to see if there is anybody who would join so that we could have car meets and shows.
[link] [3 comments]
Is this worth my time/money?
I'm a 17 year old kid, and my parents were kind enough to provide a 2004 Honda Accord as my first car. It was my dad's old car with incredibly low miles and it runs perfectly. Plus, it's even a 5-speed.
But I've always had a passion for cars, and I would love to have a car I can call my own and that I would enjoy driving. I've done a decent amount of work on the Accord in the past, and I have general know-how of cars and how to maintain them.
I've stumbled a 1991 Miata for $1200 with 130k miles, and although it has a few issues, I think it would be a steal.
[link] [105 comments]
Is it possible to parallel park a F250 truck?
The spaces are about 6.1 meters long and the truck is 5.7 meters long.. that's not a lot of space. Does anyone have any tips for those who have to parallel park a truck?
[link] [6 comments]
Tuesday, September 29, 2015
15 y/o nephew just started his work experience at Morgan Cars (UK).
He's really into cars, and often helps me tinkering with my WRX. He often stays over at my place for the weekend to do car stuff, or just to be around me and my Subaru buddies.
When he finishes school, he's looking to do an apprenticeship as a mechanic, or similar, so for his work experience placement he was looking around at local garages. Unfortunately none could accommodate a school kid on work placement.
I'm not sure how, but he managed to get in touch with Morgan Cars, who are sort of local to him. They have work experience programmes set up, and so he's got a week of work placement, which he started today.
Morgan are a British car maker that has been around since 1909, and they hand build fantastic sports/touring cars. They all look fairly similar, there's a Morgan "look" which is that sort of 1950's classic look.
Anyway, I got an excited message this morning from him. Apparently, the first thing they have him helping to work on is a Morgan AR Plus 4. These are a limited special edition Morgan with a 2.0L 225BHP Cosworth engine. Apparently they're only building 50 to celebrate 65 years of the Plus 4, and he's currently helping work on chassis No. 4 :)
AR Plus 4: http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/ar-plus-4/
I'm a proud uncle right now :)
[link] [37 comments]
Part of the fun of selling a cheap "exotic" car on eBay...
...Everyone has an opinion.
Midway through the auction, where I start at $20,000 with a reserve of $30,000 and an optimistic (but not wildly so) BIN of $36,500, I get this message:
Him: I buy for $23500
Me: The Buy it now price is $36,500, thanks.
Him: good luk idiot not worth more than $25.000
(Yes, I should have ignored him but I was bored and I took the bait)
I linked to a similar car bid up to $38,000.
Me: And yet... http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Bentley-Continental-GT-CONTINENTAL-R-COUPE-/281805605420?hash=item419cec4a2c
I guess I need to park mine in front of a mansion when I take the photos...
And then...
Him: You know nothing idiot!!!! I drive Bentley's RR Lambo's Ferari since over 40 years. Bentley';s RR are te wosrt cars in the world , I have had over 50 cars first in 74 a Bentley Corniche 73 with 3000 miles which I had exchanged against diamonds in London at Asprey Jeweler in Bond strret . since I had all and if you want to drive a RR or B. you need 4 of those to be able to drive one. But when you have many cars you always need to show you have some RR Bentley's Always siomething wrong seats air condition sphere level eingine getting hot Avon no good after 3000 miles brake rotos shaking loosing and pissing oil and brake and level oils everywhere wind noise . I had the second delivered Continental R in Europe , magnolia leather spruce it was in April 91 and had the first delivered in Europe Continental T dec 95 Magnolia lether St james red, only kept the cars 6 months ans sold to Japon I still have a Cointi S which is same as r but with the 420 HP engine. same as T BRG pArchment piped spruce still like new. you car is nowadays not more worth than mine . $25.000 Black is very difficult to keep and black interior as well + all California cars have washed out wood and cracked varnish because of the sun heat. Anyway , I buy cars as Stock exchange - ALL SCAM - Gold = SCAM = diamonds = SCAM best I place those in the garage and they are there. Prefer to drive my AMG 500 SL 2000 NO PROBLEMS. The conti just had the passenger side widow regulator broke. I made it unmounted and saw the manufacturer in Germany . I wrote that I had same problem on 4 of my Continental r S T - They apologized and sent me anew complete window assembly ( Cost $1700 at RR FREE of charge Still packed since 2 month. not even opened it I would just buy you car to place in the garage , BETTER NOT TO DRIVE because you cannot afford obviously By the way I bought the Conti S 95 for $29.000 From Miami with 32000 miles , still like new last year was a mileneum 96 Conti R wide body , black met lether grey , 36000 mile took 6 months to sell for $27.000
I was going to leave it at that, but the auction on my car ended, final price was $30,000.
So, I foolishly respond
Me: Wow, that escalated quickly...
Btw, check out the sale price.
Him: Congratulation idiot ! $30.000 is the average price for those. But wait and see that the Ebay buyer will pay ! Bentley's and RR are bad old fashioned cars - Bad technical - built old fashioned way still using old type of clamp of the 1950's to tied up rubbers brake lines - old fashioned seals which do not seal at all , bad rubber molding - soft paint - bad leather ( Conolly was never a good leather compared to Mercedes Leather - varnish cracks everywhere , Lucas electrical RUBBISH not to compare with BOSCH , Avon tires rubbish , will last 3000 miles and are used on corners + you have to balance those every 1000 miles , brake are vibrating , Happened to me after a drive of 600 miles that I washed the Continental T which had 3000 mile under the wheels where the rotors got wet , those distorn from hot to cold water and had to be changed under guarantee, Those are SHIT CARS. 20 years ago I owned 16 cars in my personal use Lambo LP150 Prototypo 1988 (I Sold to Japan 1989 $1,200.000), 25 Anniverssary ( The first delivered at the Paris Auto Salon Sept 88 through Bolognini ( red met -Magnolia . Diablo the 2 first delivered in 1990 red + Black both red interior 12010 12020 - last Vantage Aug 89 #12686 Balmoral Green Fawn piped Spuce with Newport Pagnell certificate that my car was the last Vantage manufactured , Porsche 930 Turbo S only 10 made for FRANCE CH POZZI Paris - Turbo look slim + turbo look ( Both took water inside) - Camargue 83 ccxo5031 ex Saudi King El Saud Sister- Corniche Coupe 79 - Ferrari 328 GTS Zander Body 288 GTO ) Last specially manufactured F40 89 made specially for the order through Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxi for me , which I made instantly on delivery be repainted in Black and new leather black interior.Vintage- RR 65 SC III MPW Convertible SHS351 C. -1959 SC I LWB Henri Chapron only one made ex Aznavour - Brigitte Bardot LBLC22 - ex Roger Moore RR 65 SC III Flying Spur CSC25B - and of course Continental R + T .
NOTHING BETTER THAN A MERCEDES
So now I'm clearly dealing with a crazy person as opposed to a troll, so I don't respond. Within 8 hours...
Him:
I see that the bid was made 35 minutes before auction ending . Very likely a friendly bid ( Sister - Brother or Schnuckyputzy ) to release the reserve price.
Your car will re-appear on Ebay very soon ! Good luck idiot
[link] [19 comments]
Since we're doing funny craigslist ads, here's my favorite
I posted this earlier but the formatting was a problem for most. Heres an imgur album that hopefully gives people less trouble
[link] [4 comments]
Saturday, September 26, 2015
How to Convert your TIG Torch to a Gas Lens
Friday, September 25, 2015
How to Prep Metal For Welding - Quick Tip
DIRTY WELDS ARE NEVER STRONG, CLEAN YOUR METAL BEFORE WELDING
The key to any good weld is clean metal, but what is the best way to clean metal before you start welding? Depending on the tools you have and the overall goal of the project there are a few ways to prep your metal to get a nice clean weld every time.
The best welds come from pure clean metal to metal contact, any foreign materials in the welding area can cause welding imperfections. Even brand new metal must be prepped before it can be welded because there is usually a coating put on new metal so it does not rust or oxidize during the shipping process. This is a factor that is often overlooked and will always result in a weak and ugly weld. Be mindful, once you remove this coating the metal is exposed to the elements, if left out unprotected steel will begin to rust, even indoors.
To start, the type of welding you are doing will determine how you prep the metal. Inherently MIG welding steel does not need the metal to be perfectly clean. On the other extreme, TIG welding aluminum requires contaminant free metal to create a strong clean weld. In all of the examples below you can see the difference the dull color of the "new metal" (left) compared to how it looks after it is properly prepped (right).
Angle Grinder with Flap Disc
Using an angle grinder with a flap disc works great to prep steel for MIG or TIG welding. Mild steel does not require the surface to be super clean to get a good weld. In the picture above you can see the left side is brand new untouched steel, it may look clean but it has a thin coating like stated earlier. Once you remove the coating with the flap disc, all it takes is a quick wipe down with Low VOC PRE or Acetone and you will be able to make clean and effective welds. This method works great for heavy welding on chassis parts, this area is always exposed to the elements which will build up contamination over time. Take the time and clean the metal, you'll thank yourself later.
Be careful a flap disc will remove a lot of material so don't use this on thin sheet metal, it may compromise the metals strength.
Sand Paper
Similar to using a grinder this method will work great for MIG and TIG welding steel or stainless, but it can be time consuming and does not always remove all of the coatings. Like using a grinder, you must wipe the metal down with Low VOC PRE or Acetone before welding. In the picture above I used 80 Grit sandpaper, it worked well by removing the coating but also left deep scratches that may not look good.
Abrasive blasting
If the metal you will be welding is very rusty and is not suitable to be sanded or removed with a grinder another option to prep the metal is to blast it. After blasting the metal may look clean but it will still need to be wiped down with Low VOC PRE or acetone to remove and chemical contaminants. The abrasive material can sometimes trap pieces of other metals that can cause the metal you are welding to rust or corrode. Never rely on a blaster to prep aluminum for welding, it is very sensitive to contaminants that can get trapped even after wiping it down.
Cleaning for aluminum TIG Welding
When prepping aluminum there is a slightly different process that you will need to be mindful of. Aluminum is very susceptible to contaminants therefore the cleaning process must be done in reverse to produce clean welds.
First you must wipe down the metal with Low VOC PRE or acetone, this will remove any oils or grease on the surface. The next step is to remove any oxides on the surface of the metal. To do this use stainless steel wool or a stainless wire brush on the area to be welded. Make sure that the Steel wool or wire brush is used exclusively for aluminum to avoid contaminants from other metals. Once these tools come in contact with mild steel they can transfer steel bits into the aluminum which will eventually create rust. Finally wipe down the metal with Low VOC PRE or acetone with a clean cloth or rag, from here you are ready to weld.
It doesn't matter what kind of welding you are doing its always important to take the time to clean your metal before welding. Not only will your welds look amazing they will be a lot stronger which is always an added bonus.
Check out the Eastwood Blog and Tech Archive for more How-To's, Tips and Tricks to help you with all your automotive projects. If you have a recommendation for future articles or have a project you want explained don't hesitate to leave a comment.
- James R/EW
Thursday, September 24, 2015
How are Mazdaspeed3s?
I did NOT know they had that much power. Consider me interested. How is the insurance for these? if you have one, do you like it?
I found one locally in my price range: http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/648347533/overview/
[link] [194 comments]
Subaru Impreza for first car?
I'm thinking a second gen 2.5 rs, no wrx due to insurance costs. It would probably have close to 100k-150k miles.
[link] [13 comments]
Is my ideal first car unrealistic?
So I'm applying to get my first job, primarily to get a car. And, assuming I will eventually get a job, my target/ideal car is a 2000-2005 Mustang (Ideally an '05 because of the much better look). I'm targeting the Mustang mostly because they are 2-door, they look pretty nice, and there are a lot of them out there. But, is that a little too far? Would it be doable to make insurance payments on a car like this, combined with monthly payments for a $4-6k car, on ~$600/month? Parents would most likely co-sign on any loan/financing of course.
[link] [15 comments]
Applying Filler and Glazing Putty Really Is Easy - Quick Tip
DONT LET BODY WORK GET IN THE WAY OF FINISHING YOUR PROJECT
One of the scariest aspects of vehicle restoration is body work, especially when it comes to filler and sanding. The worst thing to do is avoid it until the end, then be forced to pay someone else to get the work done. With help from Eastwood you'll, learn all the correct steps to basic body work, save money, and feel more accomplished in the end.
Above you'll see the small dent that I'll be repairing, very similar to a door ding you may get in a parking lot.
1. First clean the area you will be repairing, use PRE or acetone to remove any contaminants from the panel.
2. If necessary use a Hammer and Dolley and rough out any dents. Depending on the severity of the dent this may not be required. Filler should not be applied more than 1/4" thick, any more and there is a risk it will crack. With that said, any damage less than 1/4" deep may not need to be hammered out.
3. Sand the area about 5 inches on all sides of the dent with a 80 Grit Sanding Disc on a DA Sander. During this step do not worry about getting the area completely smooth, just remove the paint to expose bare metal around the dent. If you don't have a DA Sander, a 120 Grit Flap Disc on an Angle Grinder can be used. (Be careful, Flap Discs tend to remove a lot of material, very quickly.)
4. Using 80 Grit Sand Paper, hand sand the edges of the paint removed area so there is a smooth transition from clear, to base coat, to primer, then to bare metal. Do not use anything finer than 80 Grit because the sanding scratches allow the filler to mechanically bond to the panel.
5. Mix and apply Contour Body Filler, make sure to use even pressure while applying. This will reduce the need to go back and apply more after you have sanded the first layer. While mixing make sure to follow the correct mixing ratio. If too much hardener is added you will not have enough time to effectively apply the filler evenly. Additionally make sure to use something other than cardboard to mix on. Small cardboard fibers can get into the filler and contaminate the mix. If you don't have Quick Sheets, take a 1'x1' piece of sheet aluminum and bend one side 2" up to 90º. File the edges smooth and now you have a reusable mixing board that wont rust.
6. Use 80 Grit PSA on a Sanding Block for initial shaping, then 120 Grit PSA for finer smoothing. Then use an Blow Gun to remove sanding dust. During this step do not worry about getting the surface perfectly smooth, Glazing Putty is still to be applied.
7. Wipe down the panel with PRE or acetone to remove any contaminants and oils.
8. Mix Contour Glazing Putty making sure to follow the correct mixing ratios like stated above. Glazing Putty should be applied very thin because it's purpose is to level any small imperfections still in the panel after the filling process.
9. Sand down the putty in an "X" pattern using 180 Grit PSA on a Sanding Block to get your final finish.
10. Blow the sanding dust off using a Blow Gun, then spray the panel with a heavy coat of PRE. The heavy coat will help you detect imperfections. If the repair looks good wipe it down with a prep rag and you are ready to prime and paint.
Unless you are a pro, sanding blocks are the go to tool when leveling filler. You may see others using a DA Sander but this takes a lot of time and practice.
Check out the Eastwood Blog and Tech Archive for more How-To's, Tips and Tricks to help you with all your automotive projects. If you have a recommendation for future article or have a project you want explained don't hesitate to leave a comment.
- James R/EW
VW TDI scandal thread refresh. Please share in this thread or the ones enclosed.
Other thread starters will be deleted.
The senior and most respected source for TDI news has info here.
Our previous thread is found here
[link] [186 comments]
What're your car plans for the next few years?
I'm currently thinking of selling my V in the first year of grad school since i doubt I'll need a car. Save the money, get a miata and just keep upgrading and saving up to do a Flyin Miata V8 engine conversion. Idk if its stupid, or crazy, or both! What are some plans you guys have for your cars, or future cars??
Edit: I really want a Miata...
[link] [99 comments]
My dad's boss's car
McLaren p1... His boss is also said to own a 918, Carrera GT, 458, MP4-12C, 650s, an SLR, Aventador, Murcielago SV, Rolls Royce Wraith, and some others.
[link] [28 comments]
Without a doubt the most bizarrely-themed donk I have ever seen.
Someone really likes "The First 48": http://imgur.com/a/diy59
[link] [26 comments]
How long can a car sit unused?
In summer of 2011, I purchased a 2008 Honda Accord LX with about 50k miles on it. It had regular maintenance for fluids and filters. Other than a brake job that had been done, it was (and still is) in tip top shape externally. I drove it and it performed well until spring of 2013. At that time due to financial reasons, I was unable to drive it and it sat unused to this day. Other than the gas tank being nearly empty and having two flat tires, nothing has been done to it.
My fortunes have changed and I would like to put it back on the road.
I have no experience in car maintenance other than the above mentioned fluid and filters. It will more than likely need a new battery, but other than that, what should I have checked before I get it inspected for registration?
Should I have it flatbed towed to mechanic or should I be okay to drive it there if I add gas and oil. The last oil change was with Syntec. Would that make a difference? Is it worth putting the effort and money in or should I just try to dump it? I have been getting along fine on public transportation, but having a car would cut an hour off my two hour commute.
BTW, if it matters, I live in NYS.
Any help appreciated.
[link] [56 comments]
I was told people want to see more of my woody. So here it is after it's first bath in 4+ years.
http://imgur.com/a/x9FEw With an updated turbo 2 intercooled engine and a manual transaxle, she's one heck of a sleeper and an absolute blact to drive
[link] [2 comments]
How can I get my mechanic to inspect a car
So my long time mechanic admonished me to never ever buy a car without him inspecting it first. I want to buy from a private buyer. How do I get the car to the mechanic? Is there some kind of ettiquette here? Can I give the owner a deposit or something?
[link] [10 comments]
Looking for R34 GTR buying advice
Hey all, I'm in the market for an R34 GTR VSpec and I'm set up for an inspection of one on Saturday. I would like to know if the R34 GTR had any common problems as well as any obvious red flags that I should look out for. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that this particular car I will be looking at is quite heavily modded with a lot more power than stock. I would appreciate it greatly if anyone who has experienced a heavily modified R34 can educate me on how it differs in feel to the stock variant as well as telling me any potential problems the car may have. Thank you.
[link] [70 comments]
would a heavier car with the same hp to weight ratio be the same speed as a lighter one?
obviously there are many more factors to take into account, i just want some insight to how this would change throughout and feel free to add variables that would affect these cars
EDIT: thanks for all your insight feel free to add on to this guys its very interesting how technical this all gets
[link] [31 comments]
I'm not in love with my Challenger anymore and am seriously considering a 90's NSX as my new DD. Am I crazy?
So I found a '91 NSX w/ 49K miles for $30K.
100% bone stock.
3.0L V6 w/ 4-spd AT
(I absolutely don't want an MT. Sorry to upset you, /r/cars).
Garage kept. Immaculate condition inside and out.
The NSX wouldn't be for modding.
No AutoX, no track day, no drag racing, no boy racer BS. Just weekend cruising to C&C, running errands, and daily commuting.
I don't have kids and I'm not at all concerned with practicality.
Am I crazy? Would the this be terrible DD?
[link] [40 comments]
Wednesday, September 23, 2015
What 80s-00s cars have upgraded performance trims?
Hi guys i wanted to ask if you guys know of some cars from 80s-00s that have performance trims. I'm not looking for cars seen on your daily commute home ex. mustang gt, civic type-r or Wrx sti. I'm looking at cars that are often overlooked like Eclipse gsx, Celica All Trac or mx-3 V6.
[link] [86 comments]
People who are "manual transmission or nothing" enthusiasts, what car--- that's offered in both auto & manual--- would you not mind owning as a non-manual transmission?
Sorry if this qualifies as /r/titlegore. What I am getting at is:
There are many of us who prefer to strictly own manual transmissions. Whatever your reason may be, let's not discuss them here.
I'd like to know what car (that has both an automatic and manual transmission offering) would you not mind owning as an automatic?
What car do you think, if it were your only vehicle, you'd enjoy driving, even if you couldn't row your own gears?
Obviously, cars that only come with a non-traditional manual, such as the LaFerrari, Enzo, P1, 918, Aventador, etc, don't count. You have no say in those cars' transmission choices.
It can be any year car, btw. Murcielago, M5, M3, 360 Modena, even a Toyota Yaris if you're so inclined!
[link] [186 comments]
Tuesday, September 22, 2015
How to Quickly Clean stubborn Dirty Whitewall Tires
Sunday, September 20, 2015
Can i swap W12 engines between two different models?
i have a project car that im working on. Its a 2006 Bentley Continental GT. The car is fine but many parts need to be replaced. The thing is that Bentley doesn't sell internal engine parts so that you cant fix it, its really weird and every place i called said the same thing. I need parts like a crank shaft, connecting rod, oil pump etc. So since i cant buy the parts, i might as well buy an engine which the only way is to import from the UK. So far i called alot of places here in the states and no one has a good one, but i did read online that Bentley build W12 engines for Audi and Volkswagen that are similar. Is it possible to swap them, i know that the transmission might be incompatible with the engine. Need some advice if any of you encountered such a problem, doesnt have to be with a Bentley. Also sorry if wrong sub, this is just a huge community and i need help asap. Thanks
[link] [23 comments]
Over millions of dollars in just one parking lot!
http://m.imgur.com/a/lgSJW 3 Porsche 918's! That's nearly $4 million dollars!
[link] [28 comments]
I went to Katie's Cars & Coffee yesterday and it was quite a show
Everything from a modern V12 Ferrari swap to a 1250 horsepower twin turbo Gallardo
[link] [82 comments]
Bringing an old abused and neglected M3 back to life
Hi Reddit,
I wanted to post this here as I am so proud to finally have buffed the wax off the car that I have been working over the better of 1.5 months and wanted to share with you all the story. It's a 2002 M3. It was a mess when I bought it ( I got it... for cheap ), knew of some things, some other things came as surprises.. but I did it all myself ( and with the help of some good friends ) managed to bring this once abused and neglected M3 back to life. The car was on jack stands in my garage where I would work on it daily after work.
Rap sheet of repairs and maintenence done in timeline : 1.Oil and Oil filter change. 10w60 full synthetic. 2.Manual transmission fluid change 3. Spark plug change 4. New ZHP shift knob 5. New seats 6. Front sway bar end links 7. Rear shocks and shock mounts 8. Redline products steering wheel wrap 9. body work including rust removal, body work and paint. 10. AC refill 11. Windsheild replacement 12. Brake maintenence and painting 13. JVC audio component system ( installing soon) 14. Inteior carbon fiber wrap ( installing soon ) 15. A whole assortment of other random crap as well
Its still by no means perfect, but at least now I can be proud to own it! I have already uploaded an album to my facebook and thus feel free to see it through this link
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152936176331642.1073741836.511986641&type=1&l=8e4fcc7c36
[link] [14 comments]
I found a friend yesterday.
http://imgur.com/gallery/gpaqTUW
Does anybody else get really excited when they find and park next to the same car?
[link] [46 comments]
Chevrolet Corvette Z06 3LZ, Waterloo Ontario
I was never really a fan of the new stingray until I saw this Chevrolet Corvette Z06 3LZ in uptown waterloo. Seeing this car completely changed my outlook, it looks so aggressive in person.
[link] [17 comments]
When looking at getting a used car 10+ years old, why is it better to get a manual than an automatic?
I want to drive a manual but they're proving difficult to find. Everyone says to choose a manual for reliability purposes but I'm not sure the reasoning behind it. Anyone care to enlighten me? Thanks :)
[link] [51 comments]
If you're within a few hours of drive of Shenandoah National Park, you must drive...
US-211. If you're coming from the North, you'll do the top half of Skyline Drive to get to it, but 211 is EASILY twice as technical with elevation changes. Also one direction (West?) has two lanes, so overtaking isn't perilous. Here's a metric of difficulty--Skyline Dr has a posted 35mph limit. 50-55 in a decent car is not foolish. 45 on 211 is hair-raising. http://i.imgur.com/W5aU5G7.jpg
[link] [6 comments]
Leaving My Car In Storage
As the title says I'm going to leave my car in storage for over 7 months ands it's a 2012 Hyundai Accent, I was just wondering what I should do or have to when I come back to make sure my car runs smoothly again! Thanks!
[link] [6 comments]
My friend put diesel fuel in her Toyota Corolla....yeah I know. Any advice on how to fix it?
This maybe happens every once in awhile somewhere in the world and today it happened to her. I won't go into detail of how it happened but as she drove away from the gas station, she got about a mile down the road when it started to decrease in speed and eventually turned off.
Went down there and siphoned the diesel out (3 gallons were left inside) and replaced the spark plugs (needed replacing anyways). poured 5 gallons of gas inside and tried to start.
It was this high pitch sound that slowly died out. Didn't even get it to turn over. And for some reason her lights won't come on anymore. It's like it has a dead battery. Which, could be the case as well because of how long the emergency lights were on, but we tried to jumpstart it and it didn't get charge.
I know I may need to drain the fuel lines out and this time drain the entire tank and fill it with regular gas. I may have to replace the fuel filter as well, but what else do you guys recommend. I need to get it fixed TODAY so she doesn't have to face her stepdad. (long story).
Any help or advice is greatly greatly appreciated. I will be working on the car today and will check back here to read your suggestions and reply back to any questions.
[link] [8 comments]
Saturday, September 19, 2015
The VW TDI/diesel scandal. Post your links, thoughts, and questions in the thread enclosed below.
Go here for the news release and updates. And go here for what this means for VW and TDI owners.
It goes without saying that other thread starters will be deleted.
[link] [24 comments]
Buyers Guide: When to Use Rust Encapsulator VS. Rust Converter
Our tech team answers a lot of technical calls and emails each day and there are a lot of common questions asked and advice given. Many of them are about when and where to use our different coatings and paints. Rust products might be the most confusing as far as when to use them and which one is correct for your rust situation. I decided to put this quick article to help you decide when you should use Rust Encapsulator vs. Rust Converter.
Rust Encapsulator is one of our oldest and most well known products we sell. We've been an innovator in rust treatments and this product has stood the test of time. Encapsulator is probably the safest and most universal of our rust products as it doesn't much care what it is applied over. Below are some examples of situations where Rust Encapsulator is ideal and where another product may be better.
Ideal Encapsulator Uses
1. Surface Rust- Encapsulator will easily go over areas of surface rust and stop the rust from spreading. One medium coat is usually covers light surface rust.
2. Medium Rust- This is rust that is more than just surface or flash rust, it may have started to lightly pit the metal, but hasn't started to affect the rigidity of the metal. Start by wire wheeling or mechanically removing any loose rust and apply 2-3 medium coats to get complete penetration into the rust.
3. Bare Metal- Rust Encapsulator can be used over bare metal, but I wouldn't suggest it over an epoxy or etch primer if you ONLY have bare metal to deal with. It can be used to quickly seal bare metal in a pinch to avoid flash rusting as well.
4. Mixed Surfaces- Rust Encapsulator is the best rust product to apply over surfaces that might vary in grades of rust, have bare metal or old paint present. If you have an area that you cleaned to bare metal or repaired and there's still rust around that area, I'd suggest Rust Encapsulator.
Poor Uses
While Rust Encapsulator can be applied to almost any surface, it isn't always the best option. Below are instances where we'd suggest a different product for the best results.
1. Over rubberized undercoating or heavy duty anti-rust- Undercoating and Anti-Rust are great products for undercarriage, or hidden areas on a vehicle but using Rust Encapsulator over them is unnecessary and isn't using the product to it's full potential. I absolutely prefer to use it as a base under rubberized undercoating for piece of mind.
2. In hidden, boxed, or hard to reach areas- Rust Encapsulator needs complete coverage to properly stop the rust and it can be tough to get it to cover properly on an area that can't been prepared completely. For hidden, boxed, and hard to reach areas we suggest our Internal Frame Coating.
Rust Converter is a clear coating that will convert heavy rusted areas into a protective polymeric coating with little to no prep. This product works well when used as directed, but doesn't have room for error when it comes to using it on the incorrect surfaces. Rust Converter NEEDS 100% rust present in order for it to work correctly and to fully cure. The surface does need to be top coated after cured. For the best protection we suggest to apply rust encapsulator over the converter and then top coat.
Ideal Uses
-Medium Rust- Areas that are completely covered in substantial rust are ok to use Rust Converter on as long as it isn't mixed with bare metal or other coatings around it. One or two medium wet coats should convert these areas.
-Heavy, Flaky Rust- Rust Converter works best on rust that is HEAVY. This would be scaly rust that has begun pitting the surface and has covered all of the metal. We still suggest to knock off (wire brush/wheel) the loose, flaking rust before applying the product. The goal is for the entire surface that is rust to turn a purplish-black once the converter has finished curing. It may take 2-4 coats to fully convert a surface.
Poor Uses
-Bare Metal- DO NOT EVER apply Rust Converter over bare metal. This product needs 100% rust present for it to work. In fact virgin, clean metal could actually flash rust if rust converter is applied and left on it.
-Mixed Surfaces- Rust encapsulator needs 100% rust present in order for it to fully cure. This means it won't work completely on areas that are a mix of rust and bare metal, or a mix of original paint and rust. If you're trying to treat small rust spots that have paint surrounding them (that we assume you don't want to damage) you can use Fast Etch to saturate the area and get into those small rust spots. Then touch up with paint as needed.
-Painted or coated surfaces- This product won't work on bare metal areas to protect or prevent from rust. If applied to areas that are painted or used to coat for prevention the Rust Converter won't fully cure and the surface will stay sticky.
If you follow these quick guidelines you can quickly determine if you need Rust Encapsulator or Rust Converter. Feel free to drop us a comment if you'd like to see a buyers guide for any other product.
-Matt/EW
Friday, September 18, 2015
Quick Tech Tip- Extend Your Spark Plug Life
Thursday, September 17, 2015
What do you do if your car needs a new engine block but it hasn't been made in 80 years?
Cut apart your old one, build a CAD model then cast it.
These guys did it!
http://www.phantomengineering.com/phel_B01.html
Oh, and it's a 7.3 litre V12 that was one of the most complex and advanced automotive engines of the time...
[link] [comment]
What's a great sleeper car?
My younger friend is out to get his first car for 15k budget, but his dad is super paranoid about him going fast. Being a young guy, he obviously wants to get the most fun car that will slip by his dad's cautious eye. What are some choice picks of yours?
[link] [1 comment]
Does it matter where I go to get wheels mounted and changed?
This is my first time owning a nice car and I just got new wheels for it that I need tires mounted on.
On my old car, I just brought it to whatever generic tire store was near me and had them mount it because I didn't care about my wheels getting damaged etc.
But I read online about certain places that use old equipment that still can scratch the edge of the rim in the tire mounting process.
Is there any reputable place I can bring my new wheels to get tires on them? Also, how does the wheel balancing work on nicer wheels? For example, on my old crappy Accord, the wheel weights were just put in with a hammer on the edge of the rim and it was visible. How do they do it on nice wheels, and do I have to request for that or should they know?
[link] [3 comments]
Car show news thread. Post your links, thoughts, rants about the latest announcements this week. This includes the latest electric cars, the Focus RS, and new Civic.
Other threads will be deleted. Let's get some focused (haha) discussions going.
[link] [1 comment]
What's the quietest car you've ever driven (cabin noise)?
I'm used to driving old, rattly trucks & SUVs and old economy beaters from the 90s-early 00s where sound deadening and wind noise reduction were probably afterthoughts. Heck even my RSX gets noisy on the highway above about 65. But a few weeks ago, I rented a 2015 Tahoe and was pleasantly surprised at how quiet the cabin was. No door panels that creaked over bumps, or windows that never sealed quite right, or tire hum like my Durango. It was possible to have a quiet conversation with a passenger at highway speeds.
Then yesterday, my bud gave me a ride in his 2014 Audi A6, and it blew my friggin mind how quiet it was inside and inspired me to post this topic. Even quieter than the Hoe. No wind seeping in through the doors, and hardly any tire noise. We turned the radio off to see how quiet it was and it was honestly peaceful. Really made me appreciate how far manufacturers have come with sound deadening technology in the last 15-20 years. I've made up my mind that one of the dealbreakers on my next car is to have a super quiet cabin.
So what is the quietest car you have ever driven, or taken a ride in?
[link] [117 comments]
Now that all 911s will be turbocharged, what should Porsche call the 911 Turbo?
The AWD top-of-the-line model is going to need a new name to avoid confusion. What does /r/cars think it should be?
[link] [189 comments]
What are the best driving roads in the U.S?
I have a couple of weeks vacation, so I'm planning out a potentially cross country trip. Where are some great places to drive? Ideally off the beaten path.
[link] [33 comments]
As much as I want an s2000, I think a brz / Frs is a better buy
The Honda keeps risin in value and the toyobaru keeps dropping. In about a year im confident you can find a nice brz under 15k, and not so sure you can find a nice s2000 anymore for the same price.
Would I hate myself if I went for the brz over the s2000? I guess I could keep the miata for top down cruising...
On the other hand, what about a 996 porsche...
[link] [114 comments]
What are your top 3 muscle cars for 15k or less?
Must be pre-1980, you can include pickups and SUV's. Just wanted to see your opinions :)
[link] [11 comments]
Wednesday, September 16, 2015
Quick Project- Portable MIG Welder Torch Holder
Quick TIG Tungsten Setup Tips
When you're a beginner at TIG Welding there's a lot of steps to go through to lay a nice weld down. Getting a setting incorrect, or setting something up just a little off can be the difference between a gray mess of bird-turd welds and rainbow colored stacks of dimes. It's no secret TIG welding takes A LOT of practice and even with a perfectly setup machine it won't replace repetition and practice.
Setting up Tungsten stick-out is something that a lot of beginners get confused with. There are some formulas out there to help you determine stick-out, but those don't always work in real world applications. It boils down to setting your torch up to match what you're welding. I have two quick tips that will help get your torch set up (or at least very close) in seconds. Use these methods until you're more confident in your torch setup and it will eliminate one of the stumbling points that beginners struggle with.
1. Quick Stick-out Setup- After grinding you're Tungsten/Electrode you should have a nice taper on the tip. What I like to do is use the taper as my guide for how far the electrode sticks out past the cup. Get yourself close quickly by allowing the entire tapered portion to stick out past the cup. Tighten the torch down so just 1/16" or less past the tapered portion is visible outside of the cup. This setup is a good way to get you in the ballpark and it will work for welding on flat butt joints and many other common weld joints.
2. Use a Spare Tungsten Electrode- When welding a joint together other than a butt weld you may find that the method above may not work and the tip of the Tungsten could be too close or too far from the weld joint. A quick way for a beginner to get the stick-out correct is to lay a piece of the filler rod being used on the weld seam. You can then set your hand and torch where you'll be traveling across the work piece. Then pull your electrode out until it just about touches the filler rod laid in the seam. This will quickly get your electrode set to roughly the right height off of the work surface and with just the right amount of tungsten sticking out from the end of the torch.
These methods aren't super scientific, but they will get you close quickly and easily. Once you get more comfortable you will be able to eyeball the torch setup, but until then you can use these methods for setup and focus on perfecting other portions of the TIG welding process. I hope this helps a few beginners as it definitely helped me out in the beginning! Drop us a comment if you have any suggestions for future tech articles.
-Matt/EW